Carolina Herrera - Spring 2010

DESIGNER: Carolina Herrera

INSPIRATION: The intricate woven detail, texture and earthly hues of Japanese baskets. The few shots of rose and violet color in the collection are inspired by summer's sparkling sunsets.



TOP LOOKS: A sweeping caramel satin halter gown with body-skimming rhinestone accents that form an hourglass shape; a burnt amber ball gown striped with light-reflecting gold embroidery



ACCESSORIES: Strappy brown platform heels by Diana Broussard for Carolina Herrera; Richly embroidered clutches worthy of a red carpet stroll by Nancy Gonzalez for Carolina Herrera; glamorous I-vacation-in-St.-Barts shades by INDO Indoptica, S.A. for Carolina Herrera



WHO WAS THERE: Emmy Rossum, Rachel Zoe, Anna Wintour, Olivia Chantecaille, Shoshanna Lonstein, CNN's Alina Cho















WHAT WE THOUGHT: What would have otherwise been a dull parade of earth-toned spring wear was made interesting by interweaving fabric for a basket-like texture. Satin trims and beaded embellishments were surprising accents that caught light for flashes of glamour that are Herrera's trademark. Raffia and linen jacquard jackets cinched at the waist are paired with shorts to create a new summer suit silhouette; but clearly, this is for the lady who sails and lunches more so than the office-going career woman.



The vibrant pops of amethyst and mauve pinks were the highlight of the evening gown collection, standing out brilliantly with billowing fabrics that floated down the runway. It wouldn't be surprising to see Hollywood starlets take an elegant spin in any of the dresses during the upcoming awards season.

Runway Review - Vivienne Tam

DESIGNER: Vivienne Tam



INSPIRATION: Chinese literature scholar Martha Huang's musings on the famous Chinese Opera "Butterfly Lovers"



TOP LOOKS: A butterfly printed sleeveless maxi dress with matching shawl; sheer black-and-silver sequined long-sleeve minidress; purple tie-dye floor length dress with brown sash; turquoise satin cocktail frock with tan pleating and sequined cropped blazer in rich shades of maroon, gold and green



ACCESSORIES: Vivienne Tam's butterfly embossed HP Digital Clutch; suede vests and hobo bags accented with fringe, studs and beads; gladiator flats and platform heels



WHO WAS THERE: Jessica Stroup, Estelle, Lizzie Grubman, Angela Simmons, Carmindy (StyleList's Beauty Basics makeup maven), and Satjiv Chahil, Senior VP of Marketing at Hewlett Packard's Personal Systems Group (watching models strut down the catwalk with Tam's newly designed HP Digital Clutch in hand)



WHAT WE THOUGHT: For her Spring 2010 collection, Vivienne Tam transports us back to Woodstock, as models floated down the runway in fluid, sheer prints, flare legged bottoms and suede vests and jackets. Tam skillfully added an air of sophistication to a look that can easily come across as unkempt.



Tam's Chinese influence was beautifully executed in airy butterfly prints and exaggerated circles and stripes (minus the heavily winged vests). And the touches of suede added weight and texture to balance out her light and languid designs.

Nicole Miller Spring 2010

DESIGNER: Nicole Miller



INSPIRATION: "A modern take on prints...Experimenting with new technology and abstracting tradtional craft"



WHO WAS THERE: Amber Rose, Ciara, Amarie, Kara DioGuardi, Jill Hennessy, Beth Ostrosky



ACCESSORIES: No jewelry, no handbags, just super-high, pale-colored, wide-strapped sandals



WHAT WE THOUGHT: "This girl has a tougher edge," read the opening line of Nicole Miller's show notes, and indeed she did. Miller's take on the watercolor print thing showing on runways all over town did look a little more chaotic and stormy. Even her name for it, "digital riptide," evoked a sense of modern confusion, not the soft rain of spring. Biker influence in the form of zippers and leather paired with scuba stretch fabrics. Gunmetal gray was everywhere. But there were also softly pleated shorts and drapey pants. We really loved the white dress with opalescent stripes crossing it from every angle, and the dresses with asymetrical shoulders -- modern and edgy, but also kind of pretty.

Runway Review - Ruffian

DESIGNER: Ruffian



INSPIRATION: The Picasso exhibit, "Mosquteros," at the Gagosian Gallery



TOP LOOKS: Olive green linen trench over lamé slip, a trim black skirt suit with ruffle-sleeve bolero, hand-drawn and hand-embroidered "Picasso" dress which closed the show



ACCESSORIES: Louboutin did the shoes, per usual. The sandals were strappy and edged in black (as are Picasso's Mosqueteros) and have pink suede platforms (to match the pink carpeted catwalk).



Collaborating on jewelry a second season, designer Hervé Van der Straeten created necklaces using raw stones in the icy blues and pale pastels of the collection. The boys threw in an paillette-encrusted sailor hat based on Picasso's drawings -- which, if reshaped slightly, would make for a highly covetable clutch.



WHO WAS THERE: The usual coterie of friends and socialites... Ally Hilfiger, Annie Churchill, Antonia Thompson, Douglas Friedman and Derek Blasberg



WHAT WE THOUGHT: The erudite Ruffians exist in many time periods and their references are profuse and varied. Picasso-as-muse tipped Claude Morais' (one half of the the design duo) artistic hand. And the designer created a risqué silk line-drawn print of his chest, which ended up on skirts and separates.



This graphic naughtiness provided a punk-rock counter point to Spring/Summer 2010, which tended toward the lady-like side of the Ruffian girl -- especially in shapes with defined waists.